W. J. Baumgartner.
82
THE YPRES TIMES
find the Canadian Memorial at Maple Copse. The next port of call was Hill 60.
Here we found English Tea," and some of the party, who had been exploring
on foot, consuming the same. Cameras were much in demand; the huge crater on
the farther side of the railway particularly claimed our attention. After tea, we
returned to Ypres by way of Zillebeke.
For the following day a charabanc was chartered, to take the St. Albans party
of twenty-five down the line to Béthune, which locality they had had the
doubtful pleasure of knowing in less peaceful days. We left Ypres about 10 a.m.,
and passed through St. Eloi, Wytschaete, and Messines to Plugstreet," nego
tiating some very bad roads on the way. The roads, incidentally, in this particular
part of the world, seem to be the only things that have been allowed to remain in
a war-like condition for the benefit of the interested tourist. At Ploegsteert we
turned off to Neuve Eglise, where we had a temporary breakdown, of which
advantage was taken for purposes of refreshing the inner man. After which we
bumped down the hill to the French frontier. Here, during the inevitable' delay,
we discovered and consumed strange, mysterious liquids at the adjacent hostelry,
whilst hardly less mysterious formalities were enacted at the Douane. Then we
moved on once more, along a very straight and very uninteresting road which
brought us to drab Armentières. (How came anyone to write a song about
Armentières Thence through flat meadow land by Fleurbaix and Fauquissart
to Neuve Chapelle and the Indian Memorial. As we passed Le Touret, Chocolat
Menier Corner," Dead Cow Farm," and other well-known spots, the natives
must have been mildly surprised by the sight of a large charabanc pursuing its
journeysomewhat painfully, and not without internal complicationswith all its
passengers standing up in order to get a better view of old landmarks. So we
came to Essars, and the Canal, and finally the Square of Béthune, where we found
the worthy townsfolk making merry on roundabouts. There was an hour here in
which to look round, after which the party collected themselves and re-embarked
(reduced in number by six, who remained behind, including the Director, Major
F. Montague Jones). The return journey to Ypres was via Merville, Meteren,
Bailleul, and Poperinghe.
On the following day the party bade farewell to Ypres. In all respects the
trip was a most enjoyable one. At the Hotel Splendid the catering was excellent
and we were very comfortable; the itinerary was conveniently arranged; every
thing went smoothly; even the weather smiled on us benignantly. In short, we
were a happy company. For those who had known the Salient as a salient, there
was the pleasure of coming together again on the scene of their old comradeship;
of stirring up half-remembered things in the lumber-room of memoryold, fear
some things, that now had strangely lost their fearsomeness and acquired a new,
humorous aspect. Ancient episodes concerning rum-rations and cooks and
quartermaster-sergeants were hauled out from the background, and helped to link
together other incidents, and to fix their topographical and chronological positions.
These veterans were full of the cheery spirit that helped to hold the Salient; so that
the uninitiated members of the party listened almost with envy to the old battles
being fought again, and the old tales retold.
The small party left behind at Béthune were very comfortably put up at the
Hotel du Vieux Beffroi. Tuesday morning was spent in walking out along the
Canal and exploring Cuinchy and Givenchy. There are some very evident traces of
war here, and it was possible to follow the trench lines in several places. In the
afternoon a taxi was hired and we drove out to Vermelles, via Beuvry, Annequin,
Anchy, and Haisnes. At Annequin we found the old lady with whom our Director
had once been billeteda pathetic old figure who expressed herself as trés
content with our visit. We photographed her, unsuccessfully, on her threshold.
