THE YPRES TIMES
45
Thursday morning found us on the train to Passchendaele, where we noticed
piles of old German rifles in a scrap yard, eloquent testimony to the terrible
struggle for the famous ridge. Outside the village we visited the Canadian
Memorial, where a peasant was tending to the flowers and shrubs. From the
ridge, which was the Canadian objective, we strolled to the famous Tyne Cot
Memorial and Cemetery, and in doing so passed over the Canadian road of sacrifice
and suffering in the Passchendaele battle of 1917.
Of the twelve thousand graves at Tyne Cot, nine thousand are unknown, or
rather known unto God as the headstones simply testify. German visitors to
Broodseinde German Cemeteries often visit Tyne Cot, and express strong dissatis
faction at the neglected appearance of their cemeteries, as compared with the
British ones. One of the Tyne Cot gardeners told me that a tall Prussian passed
round one day, but although he seemed very interested, he did not speak to
anybody. I should like to express my deep appreciation of the courteous way we
were treated by War Graves Commission men here.
One thing only mars our beautiful cemeteries, and that is the admission of
horrible artificial wreaths and globes." To those who in all good faith have
put them there, I would respectfully appeal, Please leave the adornment of your
loved one's grave to the gardeners." They will cover him with natural flowers,
and it seems ungrateful to hinder that work by taking up the space with what,
after all, is only a sham. Why not send them, for "his grave, a plant of his
favourite flower? They will, I am sure, gladly plant it for you, and it will be
much nicer.
After lunch we tramped on, by way of Broodseinde, to Zonnebeke, where we
took train to Ypres. After a short rest, we again took train to Langemarck, and
visited our division's Memorial. This was particularly interesting, as our old
battalion had a large share in the capturing of this place in 1917. Walking over
Pilkem Ridge, we took train home from Boesinghe.
Our last day (Friday) was spent in a visit to Hooge, where we met two fellow
pilgrims, and from thence via Y. Wood to Railway Wood, where trenches are still
to be seen. The craters are full of water, but this ground is being reclaimed by
an industrious peasant, who was digging up a collection of shells, bombs, and
unused sandbags, which were in excellent condition. The smell of them reminded
us very vividly of trench life. The 14th Division Memorial is situated here, and
also a Memorial known as the R.E. Grave, marking the spot under which an officer
and eleven sappers lie buried in the mines. I think this was the 177th Tunnelling
Company. We returned along the railway, and by way of Hell Fire Corner and
Menin Road, to Ypres.
A visit to La Brique completed our pilgrimage.
We had not visited Hill 60, and many other famous spots, because we confined
our pilgrimage to places we knew in the war days. We were satisfied that our
programme had been fulfilled; nothing remained but to return to England, our
minds freshly stored with memories of wonderful, if terrible, days.
Out of that terrible struggle of 1914-1918 there shone forth one bright star, in
the name of which our little pilgrimage was madeComradeship.
F. J. Lineton,
J. West,
6th (Pals) Battalion K.S.L.I.,
20tli Light Division.
